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Learn How to Stamp Concrete - Do it Yourself With Ease

First we need pick our colors. This can be one of the trickiest parts of the stamping process. There are of course color swatches, the best way to pick your color from a color swatch is to pick a color from the swatch and then go back one or two colors to get the actual color that you want. This is very similar to picking out a color that you want to paint a room. There are many variables such a lighting and the other colors in the room (sofa's, rugs drapes etc.) that you wish to paint. How many times have you picked out a color at the paint store and started to paint your room and suddenly it just will not seem to match the color you picked from a swatch. This is what I call perceived vision. If you can relate to what I have just mentioned it also applies to picking out a color for your stamped concrete project, there are many variables of perceived vision, such as sunlight and surrounding colors, such as the color of your house, grass, and landscaping.

Onto pouring and finishing your stamped concrete project, I suggest that you start with no more than 100 square feet. First off let the concrete truck driver put the color into the concrete truck for you, and let it mix for at least 10 minutes. You may notice some streaking of the color as it comes out of the concrete truck, not to worry. You will want some color differences as this will resemble the natural colors of what ever impressions or stamp that you have chosen for your project. For example if you look at a rock you will notice that it has many shades of the same color and often some other colors. Your next step will be to insert the concrete into your forms, you will need what is called a screed board or a 2"x 4", the purpose of a screed board is to level out the concrete inside of your forms and to also knock down the aggregate or rocks inside the cement.

Place the wet concrete inside your form work and leave it about a .5" higher than the top of your forms. A good way to get a rough grade is to use a tool called a concrete rake or a square edged shovel. Once you have gotten the concrete .5" above your form work you can start the "screeding" process. You will need someone to help you with this process. Once you have one person on each side of the screed board each of you will start to pull the concrete towards the end of the form work leveling as you go along. At this point you will need a bull float to close the surface of the concrete.

Generally you will run the bull float from top to bottom across the concrete overlapping each previous pass approximately 50% and then repeat the process from side to side. Do not worry about getting it completely flat, as once you begin to stamp it will not be flat at all. Do not get hung up on small dips or small elevation changes in the concrete. Now you may begin to edge the perimeter of the concrete with an edging tool, again do not get hung up on doing this perfect, especially if this is your first time. Now you will run a fresno across your project in the same manner as the bull float.

Now it is time to stamp your project. Prior to the concrete truck arriving, you will want to place the liquid release agent into a cheap garden sprayer and also get yourself some surface retardant and do the same. Liquid release simply allows you to place the rubber stamp onto the concrete without pulling off the finish of your concrete, the surface retardant will slow the set time of the concrete if you feel you are getting behind. Simply spray the area you will be placing your stamp and the stamp itself before you place the stamp onto the concrete. Do not spay the entire project at once as this will accelerate the setting time of the concrete and it will more than likely dry up before you get to the end of your project. Place each stamp down and set the next stamp snug against the stamp mat that is already on the concrete. Repeat this process until you reach the end.

Let your project cure for about 3-5 days and it is time to add secondary colors or the antique stage. For this you will need to get an antique agent, I suggest you use charcoal or grey for your first time. You will also need to get some xylene, one gallon for every 80_90 square feet. You will then add 5 tbsp. of antique agent to the xylene in a 1 gallon garden sprayer and stir or shake for about 45 seconds. In a circular motion spray the secondary colors onto the stamped concrete project, keeping in mind to spray some areas thicker that others, while being careful not to spray it on to thick, this will give you a more natural looking finish.

Let the xylene dry and apply two coats of; non-yellowing, solvent based acrylic sealant. Your project will be a lot darker when you apply the sealant than you anticipated, not to worry, the sealant also needs to cure. Within a day or two it will lighted up to your perceived vision.

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Concrete Projects - Do It Yourself

Mixing, pouring and finishing concrete can be a challenge, but it can be done without hiring a professional concrete contractor. However, there are three points to consider before creating a concrete mix. You have to decide how you are going to mix your concrete, by hand or machine. You also have to prepare or "form up" your site, and then, you also need to know how to pour the liquid concrete into the forms.

The summary of how to plan a concrete project is outlined below:

Decide how you will mix your concrete

Mixing concrete is not the hardest job in the world, but it does require some dedication. You will need to decide if it is worth it for you to save about 10-20% over hiring a professional. Some advantages of doing it yourself are the satisfaction of creating something on your own. Also, you can create your own outdoor concrete sidewalk art if you want to. The best part of mixing concrete can be molding and shaping the concrete from its powder form, into a usable form. Also, mixing concrete can remind you of times when you were a child, and you played in wet sand or mud.

The right mix

If you really are up to mixing your own concrete, you are going to need to know how to make it. It consists of 1 part Portland cement, sand, and crushed stone, to 24 parts water. The combination of which should be completely combined to create a "peanut butter" texture.

Prepare the site

If you live in a frost-prone area you will find this information most useful. Start preparing your site by replacing the soil directly under the area with a compacted layer of crushed stone. This improves drainage, and eliminates the frost heaving hazard. You should go about 6 to 12 inches under the work. This does not replace all the soil under the frost line, but it will remove the most active soil. The reason you have to do this is because soil freezes. Frozen soil causes concrete flaking. Therefore it is wise to following these instructions if you live in a frost inducing area. Then, use a gas powered compactor to compact the stone. This will help prevent any settling which causes cracking. Next you will have to build concrete forms. Two by six (2x6) concrete forms are ideal for most patio and sidewalk applications. Please look up concrete forming at your local library for further instruction on how to build a concrete form.

Pour the concrete

Once your concrete form is built, you will then be able to pour your mixed concrete into it. Work the concrete into the corners with a garden rake. Then, halfway up the sides of the form. Then, lay some mesh down. After the steel mesh is laid, lay more concrete over it. For further mixing and pouring instructions, please search your local library or the Internet for complete concrete planning.

This is not a complete list of what to think about before beginning a concrete project. However, this article will help you decide how to plan for your concrete project. There is a lot involved in this, and you have to know what you are doing. Another option to preparing concrete slabs is to either buy ready mix concrete and pour it yourself or to buy precast slabs. Also, you can hire cement drivers, and have someone build the form for you.

However, if you enjoy playing with mud-like substances this concrete job is definitely for you. Even if you only save 10-20% of what it would cost to buy ready mix concrete, at least you are saving money. It can cost thousands of dollars to hire contractors to do this for you. 10-20% saved would be at least a few hundred dollars. This is more money that can be used elsewhere on your home improvement project. Not only that, but doing it yourself is more fun!

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Stain Concrete Floors Yourself

If you have a few hours free during the weekend, then you have enough time to stain concrete floors yourself. This do-it-yourself project will result in floors you can be very proud of. When using an acid based stain you will also be getting a floor that is virtually maintenance free. The chemical reaction between the minerals in the floor and the acid in the stain make it so the color will not fade when faced with the elements, and will not peel from heavy foot traffic.

If this is the first time you will be staining concrete floors yourself, then it might be a good idea to invest in an all-inclusive concrete staining kit. These kits contain nearly everything you need to get started, and many even come with a step-by-step guide on how to do the whole process.

You should not be intimidated with this project, even if you are using an acid based stain. It is a great job for both new and experienced do-it-yourselfers to dive into. The key to working with acid, even a low level acid like in the stain, is to take all the proper precautions for safety. This includes wearing thick shoes, long pants, long sleeves, rubber gloves, and splash guard goggles.

Make sure you read up on process before hand, so you have an idea how it works before you start. If you are using a kit you will not need to worry about purchasing all the different materials, but if you do not then make sure they all work together. By this I mean only use a sealer that is recommended by the company who makes your stain. Most of the time the company you buy your stain from will be able to offer you both of these items together.

There is no reason for you to have ugly concrete surfaces any longer. With just a few hours of hard work you can have beautiful floors that people will mistake for very expensive stone.

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How Building Stairs Can Be an Easy Do It Yourself Job with EZ Stairs Video

Think building a case of stairs is difficult? Think gain! By using the methods in this educational video, building a set of stairs for your house, deck, exterior building is simple and you can Do It Yourself! EZ Stairs (www.ez-stairs.com) does all of the hard work, you just have to line up the pieces, fasten them to the wood and then then trim. A do it yourself job made simple and easy. EZ Stairs® adjustable two stringer stair building system greatly simplifies the entire stair building process for interior, exterior & concrete formwork. Manufactured with 14 gauge hot-dipped galvanized and epoxy powder coated steel. Suitable for ACQ. This patented new method of stair construction allows for customized framing and fast installation of stairs up to 9 wide interior (7 exterior) with only two stringers. It is also a new proven, tested solution for lateral rail post support exceeding all code requirements. ICC approved, award winning, saves time, labor, money and materials.



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